gamurra ala Ghirlandaio in 140 with construction notes. A (gamurre pl.) Gamurra is an underdress 15c Italian base, usually worn with or Cioppa gionera chasuble in public. It has a fitted bodice laced at the front or sides with an attached skirt gathered or pleated.
Birth of John the Baptist. 1486-140. Fresco, width 450 cm. Cappella Tornabuoni, Santa Maria Novella, Florence.
This dress began as a basic tunic. The tunic was placed on dressform. The front and rear which closely pinned as a starting point for gamurra corsage. The Pining continued beyond the navel for a correct fit. I used this tutorial by Tasha help me with the stitching and cutting process.
Cut the red linen with my new model (over two inches in size) and assembled using instructions from the Rashid uncle. Serged the back seam and made regular sewing for everything else. Here is a picture of the two models gamurra I created. The first (left) was "too high neckline laced closed" version and the second is the final version.
the sleeves were build using this step by step tutorial detachable sleeves by Linda Rowen, et al.
red gamurra revisited
I took an Italian class clothing accessory to Pennsic and learned finishing the dress with a job - a type of scarf worn by all Italian women usually around the waist or hips. that's why some paintings show a skirt fabric pocket as if they raised the dress up. It was to keep the dress from the mud and resting the weight of the garment on the hips which makes for a . workday easier I added some black trim down the dress
sought Works
Cottesimple: .. mounting a curved coat before
Florentine dress by Festive Attyre
Italian Renaissance building by Linda Rowen sleeve and. Al
Document:. A Guide to Gamurre by Mistress Kamilla van Anderlecht
Clothing in Quattrocento Florence by Jessica Wilbur
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reversible gamurra ala Ghirlandaio in 140 with the Construction notes. A (gamurre pl.) Gamurra is an underdress 15c Italian base, usually worn with or Cioppa gionera chasuble in public. It has a fitted bodice laced at the front or sides with an attached skirt gathered or pleated. Gamurra were not reversible in the revival. I just wanted to pull double duty in Pennsic.
I used the same construction technique that red gamurra, but this time all the seams were closed Overcast. It made for cleaner edges when I turned the inside bodice. I first stitched with a regular machine on the longest point along the outline, tried on and serged seams following the stitches.
Out of curiosity, I put all my models side by side. The leftside is the reason for the original tunic, the second is the cotehardie, the third is the first gamurra, the fourth is the second reversible gamurra.
I shortened the bodice that ends right at the bottom of my ribcage. Measured and scored three times as much material as the bodice width to the skirt and a little extra for the seams. Pinned the two pieces together and square, folded in half, cut and sewn long opening 4-inch "V" at the half point. The compacted material a little to the bottom of the "V", so I have to do some research on how to correctly adjust a gored opening. Flipped the skirt so that the seam is inside the skirt, each open half-skirt (seams "v" visible) with right sides together and then stitched serged each side (independently of each other) to make the back seam every skirt. Then turn the inner assembly skirt -. I will not even try to explain
Using my handy-dandy elastic, I stitched pleats 1/4 "by up I bought a new elastic to have on hand and realized he was not the same stretch the old guy too hard lesson #way: .. always remember to check the stretch ratio. the elastic before cutting your fabric for the best elastic shirring skirt has a stretch ratio of 3: 1 .. now I am trying to pin the corsage skirt
sewn to the lining and fixed lacing rings. cord 1/4 "cotton filling wrapped in the edge of the bodice worked perfectly in eliminating tug of wrinkles (red lines in photo below). Lacing placed two rings on each side of the bodice on the cotton cord and sewn through the fixing bead of the two rings together with invisible thread.
I Wrights red brick wide bias tape used to trim the slate blue side and some brown trim flower pattern I picked the Pennsic last year for the teal side. The brown trim was more difficult to handle. I washed the filling, then used a steam iron to the curve. Used a backstitch sewing brown trim through the other side of the bodice. Sewing was covered on the other side with red brick trim. I was careful not to take the machine bluestone not sew through the teal side. Always sew on trim thinner before the wider trim in a reversible garment.
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