Florentine dress is a style of dress worn by women in Florence, Italy from 1500 to 1525. The square neckline bodice natural curves of the female body. The neckline is decorated with a large pad is like the hem. I partlet wearing cotton and a linen turban to give the dress a more working-class sensation. Molto Italiano!
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Book Moda Firenze Images 1540-1580 
The final version of the bodice. shoulder curves slightly outward in an oval shape.
The inner bodice is made of two layers of linen 7 oz weight and a light wool lining. I think my choice for a wool lining is the period since the Medici in Florence were known as the wool merchants. dress survivor Eleonora is referenced in Moda Firenze as having a cozy inner bodice.
For more security wool is washed and ironed to shrink. I stitched canvas using a zigzag stitch on all sides except for size. Then put another layer of cloth over it and pinned in place. I pulled 1 "lines on the front of the bodice and each line sewed 1/8" wide channel which is enough for two lengths of rope.
The hemp cord 1/16 "wide and appears to have gone through a kind of process. I considered first hemp rope but I hope that the treatment will eliminate any dreaded withdrawal. Oh, also purchased a loop turner. It works wonders to pull the cord through the channels. below is a video so you too can be convinced of its power. the last time I used floral wire and the boy were my raw hands. I Corded straps. retrospect, I would advise not to do so.
I placed the inner cord blouse on the fashion fabric and folded into a thumb on the inside bodice. - like a hem and clipping curves necessary Pinned everything up and hand stitched down with a point blow. I reinforced the two square edges of the neckline with extra wire as in the underbodice Eleonora.
now my problem is the length of the bodice. In most low portraits of the bodice appears sitting just below the rib cage. That means I have to cut almost a third of the bodice to get this look. My friends assured me costumer cutting the bodice just below the rib cage is the most under 16c Florentine. After cutting the bodice to the waist, I met the bodice in half and squared the straps.
God thank you, I listed to Jennifer when she said " Word the wise: If you make a dress with guards at the neckline, beautification plan details before making your model and cut your fabric "because the pad placement makes me crazy!. I can not imagine where my nerves would be if I did not listen. BowtoJennifer :: ::
What I need to do is remove the trim of the upper neck. I used a point shot that causes the lining to be folded. I looked through my sewing books and learned the point of the scale, which makes for a cleaner line edge. In the following picture the black top trim is sewn with a dropped item, the second line of the plate with a ladder stitch. big difference.
skirt was constructed of two rectangular pieces for the front and rear and two pieces for the sides of bull horns. The gore measured 6 "above and were cut at a 30 degree angle. I pleated skirt pleats after surjeter all rough edges and seams. The skirt was pinned to the bodice at the bottom of internal corset. This supplement fabric was cut after I sewed the skirt on
what I would do is use a little math :. ..
1 Measuring waist width front at the point where you attach the corsage (20 ")
2. Multiply by three because each fold is a ratio of 3: 1 (20" x 3 = 60 ")
3. Add 1/2" seam allowance for each seam. (2 seams x 1/2 "= 1" 60 "= 61") This is the width of your front panel.
4. Do the same for your measurement panel backs. (10 "x 3 = 30" + 1 "= 31 ') This is the width of your back panel.
Decide whether to side gores. sides gores are added so that you can slip the dress. over your head after lacing, side gussets can be neatly folded in back with a hook-and-eye
5 Add the difference between bust and waist measurement (36 ... " - 30 "= 6")
6. Divide by two. (6 "/ 2" = 3 ")
7. Add 1/2" seam allowance for each seam. (2 seams x 1/2 "= 1 '+ 3" = 4 ")
This will be the top measurement for your side gussets. Gores cut at a 30 degree angle. The length of each panel must be bodice attachment point on the ground, more 3/4 "inches for the top hem and 2" to the bottom.
If you want to lace up your right dress on the sides and / or leave an opening on the side, and simply add the Step 6 result in step 3 and 4. This will give you extra fabric for wide seam on the sides. (61 "+ 3" = 64 "front panel, 31" + 3 "= 34" back panel)
There are a lot of information on how to make a bodice, but next to nothing on how to actually attach the skirt to a bodice. I emailed Sunny Buchler and fortunately she told me to just butt the two pieces and Whipstitch them up.
Let my wondering eyes did appear after and sew the folds of the box (video below), but a top Overlock skirt to the side opening. I sewed in a very small size - just enough to cover the edges Overcast. What I would have done (word again) is fold on top / gross Overlock down 1/2 "before I started pleating. - Maybe even adding a little wool mild or felting as a stabilizer in the fold
I put sliced and covered with embroidery thread and a buttonhole stitch. carnations were left over filling diagonally back, so I covered carnations or silk orange or black.
the sleeves are coming along well. I made a new model based on my technique sleeve pattern of Venetian dress. it will be lined with dyed black china silk. I also did a simple linen position.
the things I would change
1. Change the way I folded and attached skirt.
2. Add grommets before placing any rear trim diagonally.
3. Maybe eliminate the wool layer in the inner bodice.
4. Pin skirt to bodice to see if the bodice pulls down due to the weight of the skirts. This can change where I really cut bodice.
After wearing the dress for a couple hours, I find that my shoulder hurt like hell before. I think it's because of the wired shoulder strap. Either the strap is not meant to be wired, or I was not used to sitting this beautiful and right. The bodice was wonderful! He supported me as a very good sportsbra. wool coats and linen are not a problem in the middle of August I felt very at ease.
sought Works
Jennifer Thompson Florentine Diary dress
eyelet hole demonstration by Renaissance Tailor
Period Patterns # 41 by Mediaeval Miscellanea LC.
Beige / Gold Florentine by Cindy aka HappyStamper
Red Florentine Sunny Buchler
Pleats Period ElizabethanCostume.net
Christy Lee, A Florentine dress in the style of 1510
Florentine sleeve pattern with festive Attyre
